The hood called: we want our culture back
This shit is for us.
For many years, aspects of Black culture once classified as ghetto have been ripped off and repurposed for high fashion. It’s almost as if Black ideas are only acceptable after they have been approved by the likes of white fashion gatekeepers. A du-rag is now chic after having been rebranded as an “urban tie-cap,” and cornrows, now renamed “boxer braids,” are suddenly all the rage in Paris. In both examples, staple pieces of Black culture were only publicly deemed fashionable after they had been repackaged for white consumption. Of course, we’ve seen models strutting down the runway wearing pieces of Black culture during various fashion weeks and have even seen certain cultural trends make appearances in magazine spreads and on front covers. However, the fashion industry, as seemingly welcoming as it is of Black culture, does not welcome or celebrate Black people in the same way.
“It’s almost as if Black ideas are only acceptable after they have been approved by the likes of white fashion gatekeepers.”
For his show during Spring Fashion Week 2017, Marc Jacobs featured a cast of white models sporting multi-colored faux dreadlocks instead of simply casting Black models with natural dreadlocks. When critics highlighted the lack of diversity in his show, Jacobs responded, “I don’t see color or race. I see people… Appreciation of all and inspiration from anywhere is a beautiful thing.” You could almost hear the sound of Black people everywhere rolling their eyes, and here’s why: dreadlocks are seldom appreciated on Black women. At the workplace, they’re described as unprofessional. On the red carpet, even when a household name like Zendaya wore them, fashion critics made snide remarks, accusing her of smelling like patchouli oil and weed. Though Mr. Jacobs may believe otherwise, there is more than enough evidence that the supposed appreciation for Black people in the fashion industry doesn’t run very deep.
“Black people are fighting against erasure and reclaiming our rightfully owned place at the forefront of Black culture. ”
Kim Kardashian was lauded for starting the “new” trend of boxer braids, despite the fact that Black people have been wearing cornrows forever. Black women have been described as ghetto for wearing brightly colored weaves, while our non-Black counterparts are praised for their boldness and creativity when they imitate us. Black people are alienated and discriminated against for indulging in the various aspects of our own culture that have existed for centuries, while others are idolized for appropriating what we have. Society tries to shame Black people for being ourselves by labeling us as ratchet, loud, and ghetto. However, as of recently, we have been loving ourselves and our culture unapologetically and loudly enough for the people in the back to hear. Black people are fighting against erasure and reclaiming our rightfully owned place at the forefront of Black culture.
This shit is really for us, by us.
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Interview imported from SVGE Magazine Issue No. 6: The Fashion Issue (February 2020).